Tourists Only

Today was our day off.  We have dinner tonight with the students, but that, too, will be a treat.  (Tonight is our Italian night at Buon Giorno.)  We saw Wat Phra Kaeo, Temple of the Emerald Buddha; had lunch; went on a canal tour; and then visited Wat Po, which is the temple with the famous Reclining Buddha.  Father Linnane has the camera, and I'm sure it contiains some fabulous pictures.  (The sun here is so startlingly bright, one has no idea how or whether a given shot comes out well until the return home allows a truer glimpse.) 

I have pictures from our trip to the new Assumption campus to share below, but first, a few comments about what we saw today.  The temple compounds are vast in size, and the ornateness of their designs and architectural features is striking.  I am certain the pictures, while likely to be beautiful, will in no way capture the three-dimensionality and scope of the gorgeous buildings.  Wat Phra Kaeo, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, consists of a museum, a palace, and a royal temple proper.  The museum contains all sorts of artifacts and gifts from the royals, along with information about them.  We spent little time in the palace.  The King has decided not to live there any longer; given the number of tourists, I am surprised he stayed there as long as he did. 

The temple experience is also striking.  One must take off their shoes before entering, and people with shorts are not allowed in.  (Father Linnane saw a woman cutting the hems of shorts out to lenghthen them, in order to get in!)  Once in the temple, people sit, but do so in a way that their feet are not facing the image of the Buddha.  Every time our tour guide, Nan, mentioned the image of the Buddha (and we saw many Buddhas), she described it exactly that way---as an image.  This is consistent with the Buddha no longer being here, having attained Nirvana.  That led me to ask what our (Buddhist) guide was praying for, and she responded, "To his purity, to his kindness, and to his wisdom."  This set Nan into a sequence of comments about Buddhism's role in Thai people and culture, the ever-present seeking to give to others and attain peace, Thais' continual smiles, and the critical nature of the present moment.  This caused us to reflect deeply.  And it rings true, on the day to day and moment to moment: we have been so graciously and continually welcomed, and not just by people at locations frequented by tourists.  I am hard pressed to think of a place with nicer people.

I should note, of course, that the "Buddha images" were not photographs or paintings.  These were large (well, for the Reclining Buddha, garantuan) golden statues.

Our "long-tailed boat" trip scooted us through the wavy and brown water, along and then off of the main Chao Phraya River, into a trail of remarkable canals that arterially span much of the city.  Typically, the canal shores consisted of dwellings, many simple, and virtually all with a sort of porch decks or sitting area over the water.  Apparently monks take boats along the canal waters in the mornings and are given food from those who live in the dwellings.  Not many people were out other than an occasional resting older person, somebody fishing, or a few friends sitting and discussing.  The dwellings were generally not plush in any way---just simple, and ranging from some that appeared to be falling down to a few that are probably viewed by Thais as we view McMansions (but, given what I have experienced with Thais, I would guess that jealousy would not be part of that view).  On occasion, somebody would happen by in a canoe with tourist treasures, from miniature icon-like gift ideas to an icy Singh Ha beer.  The canals were many in number, and, though we toured about for an hour and a half, I know we saw only a glimpse of them.

The canals gave one a feeling of Bangkok being like Venice, and that is true: Bangkok is sinking.  At Assumption, the University must deal with sinking land---something like a new stair step every three years.  (I will correct this later---I will ask Father Nash again about the sinking rate tonight.)

But, that in no way has stopped Assumption from attaining great beauty.  Here is a host of pictures from yesterday's visit to their new Suvarnibhum Campus.  While I load them, I will be prepping up for Buon Giorno!  : )  I unfortunately will not have time, at least now, for notating them---as you may guess, each has a story.

Tomorrow is our last day here---we will depart just after midnight, Bangkok time.

Tim

Comments

[Ron Amiot]

Brian/Tim: I've my doubts that this will make it to you - either because you'll have already left for home or because I don't know how to fill out all the info asked for by this "sign-in." In any event,I send a word of congratulations to you both on the clever wit of your informative reports& the discipline to get them out at the end of long,&, I think, hot/humid days - tho. in pics you both look cool cukes. You both are natural bloggers. I've been harboring images of you hosting a daily talk show on Loyola radio or TV - just a half hour of pleasant banter each morning over coffee & "healthy-breakfast" - welcome perhaps an occasional guest, an answer-email or call-in segment. Safe travels home. RJAmiot

[Stephanie Sykes]

Father Linnane & Mr. Snyder,
I recently stumbled upon your Thailand blog and have been a daily reader ever since! As a Loyola graduate (class of '06) and a former ABAC teacher (May '06-May '07) your blog makes me incredibly nostalgic for my time spent in BKK and I thoroughly enjoy reading your observations on Thai culture and your adventures spending time in one of my favorite places on earth. If any underclassmen at Loyola happen to be reading my comment, please take time to consider studying abroad or teaching in Thailand. It was one of the best experiences of my life! Give Grandma my best!
Wishing the best to you both at the end of your travels,
Stephanie